The UMCC have been running two classes indoors for a number of seasons now with Tamiya Mini’s as the slower, ‘fun’, class and then 13.5 brushless touring car as the ‘expert’ class. I have put ‘fun’ and ‘expert’ in quotes because in both classes there is a lot of close racing.
For some the faster touring car class is seen as a bit fast and some running the Minis were looking for a new challenge but the jump to touring cars was a jump to far. For this reason the club has decided to introduce a class to sit in the middle in the form of Tamiya TT02s which will run as a third championship series commencing this coming indoor season.
The club has published a specification for the new class;
Class name: Modeltune Tamiya Touring Challenge
Chassis: Tamiya TT02, TT01 (or older shaft driven non ‘TRF’ Tamiya chassis)
Power: – brushed Tamiya standard silver or black sealed 540 motors with standard Tamiya speed controllers
– brushless 17.5 turn motors with any ‘blinky’ speed controller (zero timing advance enabled)
– batteries – 7.2 volt (6 cell) NiMH or NiCad
– 7.4 volt LiPo (2 cell hard case only). LiPo only permitted with speed controller equipped with LiPo voltage cut off.
Tyres: Sorex 28RX (pre glued, wheel tyre, insert)
Modifications: permitted except – standard kit ‘tub’ chassis only
– standard kit gear diffs only
– not solid axle, spools, ball diffs or one ways etc
Gearing: max gear ration of 5.74
The aim is to have something a bit quicker than the Mini class and still allow for some of the hopups and modifications that are allowed in the touring car class.
In addition the class will have the support of Rennicks Modeltune and the club will have two new ‘club cars’ for the class in action from the fun day 27th September. These two cars can be tried by non-members who think they may want to try out some racing – Just speak to Marty or Jim at race control.
Enough of the background, here are some pictures of the build of one of the club cars;
Please note this article is a work in progress and may seem a bit rushed but we wanted to get something up before the start of the indoors…
We will be coming back to it and some of the better drivers will be supplying hints and tips for a good build later so please check back.
Tamiya definitely know how to make a box look good!
Before the start of the build, my pit area is pretty clean… the main tools for the build are a star head screw driver, some cutters to get the parts of the plastic spruce. Pretty much everything else is in the box.
You really do get a lot for your money – the kit even comes with a speed controller, motor and very nice shell in the box;
As I said you get a lot…
The manual is very goos and you also get a second manual to explain how to put the shell together and paint it.
As you can see there are some pointers and comments as you go along
A lot of the screws for the build come in one bag so I split them out into a box with different compartments so they are easier to find
As you build the car parts are taken of the spruce. Each spruce has a letter on it that is referred to in the manual. If you look closely at the picture below you can see a C in the middle of the picture.
On with the build and here is the start of the front and rear gearbox.
And the parts then placed into the very solid looking chassis.
The kit comes with a gear diff which is essentially a container for 6 smaller gears that rotate to take drive to the wheels. The TT02 is a four wheel driver car with the drive from the motor going to the front wheels via a shaft that goes down the centre of the car.
The start of the front arms and the shock tour getting ready to go on.
Drive to the wheels as I said above is from the motor to the gearbox and then via the shaft to the wheels. To tune how fast your car can go you change the pinion (the silver gear in the picture below).
The motor is attached to the black motor mount…
that then slots into a mount on the car and the pinion meshes with the big spur gear that then drives the shaft.
The start of the rear suspension
The rear suspension and shock tower in place.
At the front of the car the wheels need to be able to turn! Those corners just get in the way sometimes!
In order to do that the suspension steering block below is used…
And these are attached to the suspension parts you attached before. The steering block is attached at the top and bottom and can turn so turning the wheels.
The rear of the car built up
Tamiya supply friction shocks – this means they are dry and there is no oil inside them like the more expensive touring cars. This is probably one of the hopups that you will want to think about getting. But the kit ones are easy to build and will certainly do for your first days racing.
Shocks built and attached to the shock tower and lower suspension arms.
Remember I talked about the steering above – the picture below shows a straight plastic part attached to the steering block and heading towards the centre of the chassis. This will eventually attach to a servo that is, in turn attached to the receiver that is controlled by your radio transmitter. So when you steer on the radio it moves the servo that then moves these straight steering arm pieces that turn the wheel… believe me it all makes sense when you build it.
Tamiya supply a speedo and motor in the box
And that’s pretty much the car built… I will update this will more information on the electrics installation and hopefully the club will put up some more details on the brushless vs brushed motors as time goes on and we see how the cars go on track.
So for now, here are some final pictures of the build including the battery compartment and the strap that holds the battery in.
The rear of the car
The front with the bumper in place, useful in case of the odd crash
There is a bumper at the rear as well…just in case
A view from above before the servo, receiver and battery are fitted…